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NOTES
It is not often that one can talk about the greatest producer in a given country (but Austria is small, so here one has an advantage). And while there are many great winemakers in Austria, none is more synonymous with great Austrian wine than F.X. Pichler, or as he is simply called, F.X. In fact so riveting is his reputation that one author on Austrian wine who was prompted to list the 100 greatest producers in Austria, in order of greatness, lists F.X. Pichler as #1. When one tastes the wines, you’ll see why all the awe. They are truly monumental dry white wines – each with a mouth-filling presence, finish and complexity that leaves one speechless. His Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg is the quintessence of rich, exotic multi-layered Riesling. His Grüner Smaragd Kellerberg and Grüner “M” are the most rich and complex expression of this unique varietal one can attain.
"…F.X. Pichler is the Chateau Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau." – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
TASTING NOTES
The Pichler 2007 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg makes a statement so mineral it is the bottling that ought to be named capital "M". Salt, white pepper, iodine, and crushed stone mingle with lime and white peach on a palate display of fine-grained density and broth-like, reduced concentration, yet compared with the Steinertal one of restraint. A vibrant, almost electric thread of acidity runs through this, in part a legacy of desiccated fruit at the end of November (which in turn meant very low yield), and as with the Loibenberg, this virtually lights up in the finish, with almost visceral penetration and a kaleidoscopic display of white pepper, salt, stone, citrus, and pit fruits.
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