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NOTES
It is not often that one can talk about the greatest producer in a given country (but Austria is small, so here one has an advantage). And while there are many great winemakers in Austria, none is more synonymous with great Austrian wine than F.X. Pichler, or as he is simply called, F.X. In fact so riveting is his reputation that one author on Austrian wine who was prompted to list the 100 greatest producers in Austria, in order of greatness, lists F.X. Pichler as #1. When one tastes the wines, you’ll see why all the awe. They are truly monumental dry white wines – each with a mouth-filling presence, finish and complexity that leaves one speechless. His Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg is the quintessence of rich, exotic multi-layered Riesling. His Grüner Smaragd Kellerberg and Grüner “M” are the most rich and complex expression of this unique varietal one can attain.
"…F.X. Pichler is the Chateau Latour, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Zind-Humbrecht, Sandrone and Helen Turley of the Wachau." – Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
TASTING NOTES
The 2007 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin - the second bottling for this site chez Pichler, and harvested mid-November - smells site-typically of lime, buddleia, and black currant. With deft balance of bright citricity, ripe, succulent melon and apricot fruit, and oily richness on the palate, as well as a sense of extract and glyceral sweetness, this wine seems to typify the effusive generosity one finds in many granite sites. (I am put in mind, for instance, of Brand Riesling from Boxler or Zind-Humbrecht.) A soaring floral perfume; pungent, savory salinity and subtle smokiness; bright citricity; and depth of melon and black fruits, make for an unforgettable finish. For all of its opulence, this has only 13.5% alcohol.
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