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NOTES
The northern Rhône Valley: a stretch of wine country where the river sets the tempo. The river shapes a fold of land that hugs the vineyards and confers their authenticity, their point of origin. Narrow gorges, sheer slopes, tremendous terraces. Amid this arresting geography, the vines stand firm and offer sumptuous wines. The Rhône has given the grower his home port, and the plantations drink deep in its exceptional bank.
Yves Cuilleron rejects off-the-shelf ideas. His vision of vine cultivation is highly personal: not conventional, not organic, not biodynamic. And his philosophy is simple: "Produce the best possible grapes”. He practises "viticulture raisonnable”, an integrated, eco-friendly approach in which observation is key. He particularly monitors vine vigour: this must be neither too high nor too low, and, if well controlled, ensures grapes of greater concentration and balance. All vine work vital to grape quality is conducted: planting of Viognier vines deriving solely from the family’s own yards ("selections massales”), and of Syrah vines from high-quality clones and from "selections massales”; high planting density; green harvesting; leaf thinning. Yves Cuilleron is also mindful to respect soil balance, just like Uncle Antoine before him: no insecticides; three to five treatments a year at most; and small amounts of organic fertiliser.
TASTING NOTES
2 ha of south/southeast facing vines on the northern hill of Ampuis commune. "Madinière” is not the district but the name of the stream at the foot of the hill. Deep ruby in colour with powerful aromas of crème de cassis, mulberry and apricot which are strongly marked by spicy, vanillin oak. Surprisingly less oak on the palate, with rich, sweet dark berry and strawberry flavors lifted by zesty acidity. This boasts excellent focus and verve for a wine with such richness and body. Finishes with chewy but harmonious tannins and very good length.
REVIEWS
Deep red; Intensely spicy red berries on the nose, along with suave oak tones and bright rose and violet. The palate offers tangy strawberry and raspberry flavours, with silky tannins and slow-building floral pastille on the supple, sweet, persistent finish. “I want this one to emphasise fruit” Cuilleron said, noting that all the fruit came from the Cote Brune. 89-92 Points, Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 2008
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